QUESTIONS of identity have always been front and center in Myanmar, otherwise known as Burma. After Burma’s independence from British colonial rule in 1948, numerous armed conflicts broke out between the newly formed government and several ethnic minorities, as the latter were not granted the same constitutional rights as the Burmese ethnic majority.
The discussion of identity lives on to this day, with a focus on the Burmese culture. The Muslim minority Rohingyas are under constant attack by both the infamous Buddhist 969 movement as well as the state itself. The people belonging to the Rohingyan minority have been denied the right to register in the recent national census that took place between March and April 2014, while a new proposed law is under consideration in parliament. It states that a Buddhist woman will no longer be allowed to marry a Muslim man. The 969 movement along with others belonging to the Burmese ethnic majority argue that Burmese culture is under attack and has to be protected.
Another community that is discriminated against is the GLBT minority, and this community has finally decided to come out into the 
open. Since February 2013, a group has been gathering once a month to openly dance and laugh together at the first ever GLBT club, called FAB and located in the former capital city, Yangon. Originally opened by Su Su Htwe, a young lesbian Burmese businesswoman, and Mieke Bakx, a Dutch NGO worker, the club targets “lesbians, gays, and friends.” The monthly parties have taken place at various venues around Yangon. Since its start it has grown to become one of the most important meeting spots for the GLBT community of Myanmar. “We never thought the club would become such a huge hit. It was just a drunken idea that turned out to become a fantastic reality. Nothing that could be remotely described as an open forum for LGBT persons existed prior to FAB,” explains co-founder Mieke Bakx. Any revenue generated by the club goes directly to various LGBT organizations’ advocacy work to promote LGBT rights in the country.
Many people are still cautious, however, and a bit nervous to attend an event that’s so openly gay-friendly. Harassment of gay people by the police is still a common occurrence. Nevertheless, despite this ongoing threat, people in Myanmar today are more open about their sexuality than before. The first ever same-sex wedding took place on March 2, 2014, when Tin Ko Ko and Myo Min Htet got married very publicly. The wedding became national and international news, upsetting a large proportion of Myanmar’s population, as the wedding was considered an abrogation of Burmese culture and tradition. The police have since launched an investigation to decide whether any laws were broken by virtue of this wedding. (Myanmar does not recognize same-sex marriages or civil unions, but it doesn’t expressly outlaw a symbolic ceremony of this kind.)
One of the most common laws traditionally used to prosecute GLBT people is Section 377 of the Penal Code, that ubiquitous remnant of the British Empire, which states: “Whoever voluntarily has carnal intercourse against the order of nature with any man, woman or animals shall be punished with transportation for life, or with imprisonment of either description for a term which may extend to 10 years, and shall be liable to fine.” However, the 1860 law is rarely enforced today.
In addition to its greater openness and visibility, the GLBT community is also getting organized for the first time. Several gay rights organizations are publicly advocating for the rights of sexual minorities, while photography exhibitions and a film festival last November have been organized to raise awareness of the issue. The club FAB has become one of the safe spots to be completely open about who you are.
I talked to a number of people that I encountered in FAB one night. Here are just a few of the comments that I recorded (names have been changed to protect the speakers’ identities):
“It’s the first time I dared to come here. My boyfriend has talked about this party for months now. It took a lot of convincing, but now I’m here and loving it,” giggles Eaunt Ko, one of the party guests.
Through the pumping music Lwin Maung Maung shouts: “The freedom is amazing. There’s absolutely no room for ‘abnormal’ behavior at my parents’ house where I live. My parents know I’m gay, but that’s not something we talk about, especially if any of the neighbors are around.”
Yells Opal Adler through the loud music: “I think most people only think guys can be gay. I guess that’s why there are so few women who come to FAB, they don’t feel like they fit in, no matter their sexual preference. I enjoy it because of the relaxed atmosphere where everyone is so friendly. No one should feel left out, everyone should have a place where they freely can enjoy themselves and have fun!”
“It’s so nice to be here, together, completely in the open, without having to worry about people’s judging stares,” shouts Eaunt Ko over the pounding beat amid shifting colored lights before he dances of into the night.
André Larsson is a Swedish photojournalist based in Sweden but frequently on assignment in Burma/Myanmar.
